International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations
Verband der Österreichischen Berg- und Schiführer
Tiroler Bergsportführerverband

Nikos Hadjis (Chatzis)

Mountain Guide IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV

Staat. gepr. Berg- und Skiführer

nikosxa@yahoo.com

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Summit Dent du Géant 4.013m
An Alpine Classic
 
Whether you call it Dent du Géant in French or Dente del Gigante in Italian, the two peaks of the Giant’s Tooth at Pointe Sella 4009 m. and Pointe Graham 4013 m. will leave you open-mouthed!
 
This classic alpine route is equipped with fixed ropes at the biggest part of its course.
Even though Alex Huber went solo on the South Wall in 2006, our route involves mixed climbing on the 160m. granite spire. We will use crampons and ice-axes to cross the glacier until the base of the route, and then scramble short-roped on the North-West edge, traversing and ascending steadily from each ledge to the next.

Due to it’s exposed climbing and spectacular views towards Mont Blanc, the Grand Jorasses and Mer de Glace the route is quite popular during summer. After reaching both narrow summits, we will have a break enjoying the view and take a picture with the welcoming Madonna.
Then wave her goodbye and descent with some long airy rappels.

The first ascent of Dent du Géant took place during the
Golden Age of Mountaineering. It was July 29, 1882, when Jean Joseph Maquignaz, a Mountain Guide from Val d’Aosta together with his son Baptiste and his nephew Daniel made the first ascent. The next day they repeated the route in the company of Alessandro, Alfonso, Coradino, and Gaudenzio Sella, after whom the southwest peak is named - Point Sella 4009 m.
Less than a month later, on August 20, 1882, the main peak - Point Graham 4013 m. sees it’s first ascent by the mountain guides Alphonse Payot and Auguste Cupelin who guided W.W. Graham to the top.

As most of the routes on the Mont-Blanc Massif, the route itself needs 2-days, the first one for the approach and the second one for the summit and descent. It is best practice to allow for some days of alpine acclimatization and preparation for the summit.
Are you ready for your granite spire?
We offer 6-day plans of alpine training and summiting Dent du Géant and organize the ascent based on your personal wishes and needs.

Nikos and his team have
20+ years of experience climbing and guiding on the Mont-Blanc Massif!
Plan your ascent early with us!